Why Filipino Fashion is More Political than You Think!
WRITTEN BY: FRANCESA JANA SANTIAGO
Photo from Makabayan.
Photos from Kabataan Partylist and Gabriela Partylist.
Every year, the Philippine president holds a major occasion known as the State of The Nation Address (or “SONA” as it’s commonly referred to) where he or she delivers an update on current affairs, discusses issues and future plans while the entire country listens in. But before the event starts, first comes the red carpet— YES, the red carpet. Distinguished guests made up of government officials, celebrities and activists parade their best attires, pose for the press then enter the session hall. It’s like the Filipino version of the Met Gala! And just like the actual Gala, some attendees dare to show up making bold statements. However for the 2022 SONA, which was led by president-elect Ferdinand Marcos Jr, a new dress code was implemented: in-person and virtual guests were banned from wearing any outfit that conveys political messages.
Photo from @Fashionable_Filipinas via Instagram.
Unfortunately, when we talk about something cultural such as fashion, it’s almost impossible to separate the politics from it. Especially when it’s historically been used to 1.) code propaganda 2.) represent an advocacy or even 3.) stage a protest. The Terno for example, is regarded as one of the Philippines’ traditional garments but during the U.S. occupation, it had a different symbolic purpose. While Filipino men back then were able to adopt Americanas which helped in aligning themselves with the colonizers, the women still wore Ternos. Thus, this created a divide between cultures, social status and genders. The same clothing item was also popular during the Martial Law era for being associated with the dictator’s wife Imelda Marcos. So as a form of resistance, many Filipino women avoided wearing it.
Photo courtesy of Anita Navalta Bautista.
When Filipinos started migrating to America, their fashion was still seen as “uncivilized” and were encouraged to start dressing more western in order to “belong”. Through the process of adapting, Filipino-Americans, particularly the men, looked to Hollywood as reference and from there helped popularize the McIntosh and Zoot suits. These trendy clothing not only gave the community a reputable sharp style but also unified Filipinos with other marginalized groups who used the same garments. All these somehow threatened the white America so much that the suits were dubbed as symbols of delinquency and used as an excuse to attack Filipinos. Moving forward to the mid-1960s to 70s, there was a rise in California-based gangs, including what was considered as the first Filipino American one in existence: The Satanas Gang, whose fashion and behavior were inspired by street culture from both Latino and Manila neighborhoods.
For the longest time, the Filipino community used clothes to survive through different time periods as it was the only way back then to prove that they belonged. But just like how clothes evolve, so do their meanings and the people who wear them. Even though the current generation is less oppressive, it offers more resources and opportunities for not only more innovative wear but even louder political statements, just like how student designer Joanna David demanded justice for drug war victims through a fashion show or how activist Juana Change uses absurd costumes to create satire. Today’s fashion may tend to lean more on commercial use but there is still a long and rich depth to it. After all, it is an ever-evolving reflection of time, culture, individual personalities and regardless if people deny it, political history as well.