The Barong is More Political Than You Think: Decoding the Barong’s 500-Year History
The Barong Tagalog, a traditional Filipino garment, is more than just formal attire—it's a symbol of the nation's complex history and cultural evolution. From its indigenous roots to its contemporary streetwear adaptation, the Barong has been a silent witness to the socio-political shifts in the Philippines. In this article, we'll delve into the Barong's 500-year history, exploring how this iconic garment has evolved and how Illa Manila, a Filipino streetwear brand, is keeping the tradition alive with their modernized Barongorak.
The Baro: Before the Spaniards
Before the arrival of the Spaniards, indigenous Filipinos wore a simple loose-fitting shirt known as the "baro." This garment was practical for the tropical climate and was typically woven from native fibers like piña (pineapple fiber) and abacá (banana fiber). The baro was a symbol of the early Filipinos' resourcefulness, utilizing locally available materials to create a functional piece of clothing.
Indigenous Filipinos wearing the Baro, a precursor to the Barong Tagalog, woven from native fibers.
The 1500s: Spanish Influence and the Untucked Style
The Spanish colonization in the 1500s brought significant changes to Filipino society, including the imposition of a dress code to distinguish the natives from the ruling class. Filipinos were required to wear their shirts untucked, which led to the untucked style of the Barong Tagalog that we recognize today. This enforced distinction was a reflection of the social hierarchy imposed by the colonizers.
The Barong during Spanish colonization, featuring the untucked style imposed by the ruling class.
The 1800s: The Ilustrados and Mestizos' Silent Defiance
During the 1800s, the Ilustrados, educated and progressive Filipinos, subtly defied Spanish rule by adding elaborate embroidery to their barongs. This act of quiet rebellion allowed them to express their resistance while adhering to colonial restrictions. Meanwhile, Mestizos, or Spanish Filipinos, paired the popular two-color barong with leather shoes and bowler hats to showcase their wealth and status.
Ilustrados and Mestizos in the 1800s showcasing elaborately embroidered Barongs.
The Early 1900s: The American Occupation and Western Influence
The American occupation in the early 1900s saw a decline in the Barong’s popularity as Filipinos began adopting Western suits and clothing. However, the Barong continued to be used for formal events, often worn by public figures as a statement of Filipino identity. Despite the growing influence of Western fashion, the Barong remained a symbol of cultural pride.
The 1930s to 1940s: The Commonwealth Era and Manuel L. Quezon's Statement
The Commonwealth Era marked a significant moment in the Barong's history when President Manuel L. Quezon wore it during his 1935 inauguration. His Barong featured a unique "Tydings-McDuffie motif" with embroidery of American and Philippine flags, symbolizing the complex relationship between the two nations and the Philippines' path to independence.
Manuel L. Quezon wearing a Barong with the Tydings-McDuffie motif during his 1935 inauguration.
The 1950s: Ramon Magsaysay's Inaugural Barong
In 1953, President Ramon Magsaysay made a bold statement by wearing a Barong at his inauguration. His choice to wear the traditional garment, instead of a Western suit, was a powerful signal of Philippine independence and solidarity with the common man. This moment solidified the Barong as a symbol of resilience and national pride.
Ramon Magsaysay wearing a Barong at his 1953 inauguration, symbolizing Philippine independence.
The 2000s: A Blend of Tradition and Innovation
As we entered the 21st century, the Barong continued to evolve, blending tradition with modern innovation. Contemporary fabrics and cuts have brought the Barong to new audiences, including its appearance at international events like the Paris 2024 Olympics. Notably, Illa Manila has played a pivotal role in this evolution, making the Barong accessible to Filipino-Americans (Fil-Ams) who wish to wear their Filipino pride daily.
Modern Barong designs blending tradition with innovation at the Paris 2024 Olympics.
Today: Illa Manila's Barongorak
The Barongorak represents the latest chapter in the Barong's history. This streetwear update sold out quickly after its first drop, reflecting its popularity among the younger generation. The Barongorak retains the traditional Barong’s cultural essence while offering a modern twist that resonates with today's streetwear culture.
The Barong Tagalog has transcended its origins as a simple garment, becoming a powerful symbol of Filipino identity, resilience, and innovation. Illa Manila’s modern reinterpretations, like the Barongorak, continue to honor this rich history while making the Barong relevant in contemporary fashion. As the restock approaches, now is the perfect time to embrace this blend of tradition and modernity.
Don't miss out on the Barongorak restock! Pre-orders are open from August 23-26. Visit bit.ly/shopillamanila50 to secure your piece and follow @illamanila on Instagram for the latest updates on new drops and collections.
